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Bilge pltes

Started by Ericthelate, July 12, 2018, 09:05:42 AM

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Ericthelate

Hi there , very new to Winklebigs, so all good advice welcome.

Has anyone got simple drawings of the bilge plate mechanism and details of how to operate etc?

WB83 is now rigged correctly and ready to launch but I am not 100% confident about the bilge plates "Do's & don'ts' nor their basic design features.

ErictheLate
"

philshimmin

You may be referring to the drop keels, these hinge from the front of the boards and are lowered or retrieved by cords which emerge thro the 2 holes either side of the cabin entrance.Since the wbrig is not a fussy sailer, I'm not too sure they are very important as long as they are pulled up. Earlier Brigs are a bit of a prob to remove the boards for maintenance, later ones have visible hinge pins under the keel area, so the boards can be removed for cleaning/painting and cord replacement.There is info elsewhere on this site with diagrams. 
(Hope this is correct Capt. Bone  of Port line fame.Rgds.)

David Bone

Hello Phil,  I should have made the connection long before, shipmates in 1963 on the 'Port Sydney.'
Best regards. ( david.g.bone@gmail.com )

philshimmin


Ericthelate

Thanks for the info.

Still can't find anything on the site for  removal of the the bilge keels.

On board is very tight and I think needs to be removed.

Thanks Again
Ericthelate

Ken

Hi Ericthelate
Did you get anywhere with your bilge plates ?
Mine stick sometimes but drop after a bit of sailing. I find they make quite a difference when close hauled.
If you've not yet done so .. put "bilge" into the search box on the forum you'll get quite a lot .

Mike Seller

Hi Eric,
I've recently sold my WB (sail no:95) and I also had problems with sticking plates. You will get more information if you search under 'bilge boards' which is another definition for this plate!
In my case the boards stuck through rust forming on the iron weights causing the metal to blister and swell. I was able to remove the rust and thin the metal by using an angle grinder (with care). From memory I could have removed the boards by loosening the fixing bolts at the front of each board with an Allen key. Some of the early WB's did not have this facility for taking out the boards. The boards can also stick if warped or if the rope use for raising and lowering has been replaced and the wrong knot used and is wider than the boards thickness. I think the housing for the boards narrows at the top so if the boards are pulled up with force they get wedged. Hope this helps. Best, Mike.