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Keeping Up Appearances

Started by Old Forum, April 07, 2014, 08:31:00 PM

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Old Forum


David Cawston
   
Posted on Thursday, March 29, 2007 - 09:55 am:      
Roger touched on this in the old forum. How do you treat your wood? I am a die-hard Deks Olje man, I think of it as the lazy mans varnish. Although it does not quite produce that glorious deep shine from genuine yacht varnish, it does retain its good looks for several years, even if it does get damaged. No peeling varnish or water getting underneath. I generally only attend to the woodwork every time there is an International Festival of the Sea, ie every two or three years and even then it is a light rub down and a couple of coats of Deks Olje. As for the bronze, some like to let it 'go brown/green' whereas I like it to shine. Once the bronze is shining (a good bit of elbow grease with car paint rubbing compound and T-Cut)I apply Rylard's Incralac. After two years there is no sign of any tarnish and even the lower rudder fittings that have had a good dunking in salt water are still shiny bright. Finally to protect the woodwork when using an all-over cover I use very cheap pipe lagging placed over the bulwarks and cabin roof handles.

Yes there are cracks in my bulwarks, created in the days before I modified the porthole fixings so now I can take the bulwarks off without dislodging the portholes.

Old Forum

Roger Parish
   
Posted on Thursday, March 29, 2007 - 02:34 pm:      
Tests on the many types of varnish and woodstains have been undertaken by Classic Boat magazine over the last three years and the third report is in the March/April edition. In summary only two products remained intact after three years, Coelan which is prohibitively expensive and Sikkens Novatech wood stain. However if you are meticulous with maintenance then any product will last. The woodstain is now marketed as Cetol Marine and is available at chandleries.It is probably the same product. The annoying thing is that they market a gloss version for the American market but not Uk
I stripped all my flaking varnish off years ago and applied woodstain to bare wood. It is easy to apply,only two coats required. It has a sheen not high gloss but never flakes if water gets in under damaged area it dries out and no black wood stains. The theory is it is breathable has high solids UV inhibitor It was developed for building industry. I would not use anything else and have applied it to wood deck dinghies with equal success. (note for moderator-can I post a photo of a magazine page?)
Good idea Dave with the insulation. Dont you use it around edge of all over cover? With regard to the fittings I like the verdigris look!

Old Forum

Julian Swindell
Username: Julian_swindell

Registered: 03-2007
   
Posted on Thursday, March 29, 2007 - 04:56 pm:      
Quick note. Best not to publish copyright materials unless you have the express permission of the copyright holder

Old Forum


Julian Swindell
Username: Julian_swindell

Registered: 03-2007
   
Posted on Wednesday, October 24, 2007 - 12:44 pm:      
Winter maintenance underway with me I'm afraid, no late season cruising. The previous owner of my boat used French "Tonkinoise" varnish, which he swore by. I have been using it simply because he did, but I can't see that it is particulalry long lasting and it is difficult to source. does anyone else know anything about this varnish? If I want to change to another varnish, do I need to strip off all the Tonkinoise, or is it OK under another make? I presume that if I wanted to use Deks Oele I would need to go back to bare wood first?

Like Roger, I think a matt green finish to bronzework has a certain, what shall I say, "Je ne sais quois" about it. I also got rapidly bored the one time I tried to polish it all back to a beautiful glow.

Old Forum

Adrian evans
   
Posted on Wednesday, October 24, 2007 - 03:13 pm:      
http://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/
I can only endorse what You say, however- Peggoty's previous owner talked about it with reverence, and gave me an empty tin, but as he revarnished last year, and it is already needing redoing, I'm not convinced.
I've been thinking about the oil option, which I much prefer, bar the prep work, and now that I need to replace half a bulwark, after Peg's contretemps with a tree on 5unday, now maybe the time to go for it.

Old Forum


Pam Freeman
Username: Pam_freeman

Registered: 05-2011
   
Posted on Sunday, October 09, 2011 - 01:59 pm:      
Deks Olje is already underway for the exterior woodwork on Mudlark re Winter Maintenance and I wondered if anyone has a particular well-tried method for cleaning up and 'polishing' the bronze work aboard. The heart, mind, body - especially the elbows - are at the ready for good old hard work but if you've any hints I'd be most grateful.

On the subject of maintenance, once the preparation has been done (as discussed elsewhere) for the trailer, can you think of any disadvantage to wrapping all the "joints" and moving parts etc with snuggly-wrapped bubble-wrap prior to the worst of Winter arriving?

Returning after many years to all aspects of keeping a boat including those over Winter is, though very pleasurable, quite a shock - as to all the things that have to be done so please allow this "newbie" at least this chance of asking you for any helpful hints! Thank you.
Pam

Old Forum

Martin_cartwright
Username: Martin_cartwright

Registered: 04-2008
   
Posted on Sunday, October 09, 2011 - 04:09 pm:      
Others may disagree, but I think ventilation is the best cure for dampness corrosion in our climate. I leave my tarpaulins loose fitting so the wind can blow through in the winter. I would certainly not wrap anything in bubblewrap as condensation is as much a cause of corrosion as weather.I would be interested in others' thoughts?
Re. Cleaning brass/bronze:- I like the verdigris look......but maybe this is just idleness!

Old Forum

David Cawston
Username: David_cawston

Registered: 03-2007
   
Posted on Sunday, October 09, 2011 - 07:30 pm:      
Pam, For an easy solution for polishing up bronze, have a look at my posting on 27 June 2011, topic 'The Hull', thread (near the bottom) 'Major Refurb'. As for winterising, I go around the trailer with a spray can of grease (chain lubricant) and if it looks a bit rusty, it gets a good spray. Waxoyl could be used.

Old Forum


Pam Freeman
Username: Pam_freeman

Registered: 05-2011
   
Posted on Monday, October 10, 2011 - 12:23 pm:      
Martin and David, Thank goodness I asked re the bubble-wrap. What an absolute wassock I was being. I can certainly see your point and agree anyway re "fresh air" and ventilation. I was just being lazy and not thinking things through. I see your point David regarding the lubricant notion and this will be added to other comprehensive hints I gleaned from pages elsewhere regarding the trailer. Thank you both for responding so promptly.
All bronze tips have been gratefully received and thank you for pointing me to the right area on the Forum.
I keep wanting to shout out loud how thrilled I am at having a Winkle-Brig now of my own. The fact that she's not even in the water at the moment doesn't bother me: there's so much to do and even the nastiest of Winter jobs will be a joy to do knowing she's my pride and joy. Silly? Probably - but amongst friends - I hope(?) - I don't care anymore! Life's too short; let's enjoy it!
With all best wishes to you both respectively, - and thank you.
Pam