Author Topic: Bulwarks and portholes  (Read 2565 times)

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Bulwarks and portholes
« on: April 08, 2014, 07:46:26 AM »
Adrian Evans
Username: Adrian_evans

Registered: 03-2007
   
Posted on Friday, June 13, 2008 - 05:29 pm:      
I am just about to refit my replacement forward starboard bulwark on Peggoty. where the porthole clamps the aftward end to the grp side of the cabin, there was a huge amount of silicon sealant. This may have beon to help stop water penetrating the leading edge of the porthole, or may have been to try and help hold the back edge Of the bulwark in place in addition to the porthole - the spring in the wood exerts considerable force.
if the latter, I'm tempted to use sikaflex- a much better adhesive - but much harder to remove if I ever needed to get the bulwark off in one piece.
I'd appreciate any thoughts. thanks.

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Re: Bulwarks and portholes
« Reply #1 on: April 08, 2014, 07:46:43 AM »
Martin_cartwright
Username: Martin_cartwright

Registered: 04-2008
   
Posted on Friday, June 13, 2008 - 08:06 pm:      
Adrian. I know that David Cawston had experience in removing and replacing bulwarks around the portholes, so it may be worth waiting for some advice from him.

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Re: Bulwarks and portholes
« Reply #2 on: April 08, 2014, 07:47:08 AM »
David Cawston
Username: David_cawston

Registered: 03-2007
   
Posted on Thursday, June 19, 2008 - 07:17 pm:      
Hi Adrian, Go down to your local car accessory shop and buy a foot of Kunifer fuel pipe, large enough to fit over the bolts which fix the porthole. Cut the kunifer into short lengths, just longer than the thickness of the bulwark. Refit the porthole without the bulwarks but with the spacers spacing the porthole away from the cabin side. Use silicone sealant for where the porthole fits through the cabin and where the inner ring clamps up. Cut back (a small bit at a time) the bulwark where it fits behind the porthole so that it slides between the porthole and the cabin side but clears the spacers on the bolts. Leave as much wood as possible to retain strength (hope that is sort of clear). I have also added 2 extra fixing nuts/bolts/domed washers (to match the ones on the uprights in the cockpit area) for the rear bulwark where it meets the rear of the cabin and 3 extra ones for the front bulwark at the front of the cabin. It is now so quick and easy to remove and replace the bulwarks

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Re: Bulwarks and portholes
« Reply #3 on: April 08, 2014, 07:47:26 AM »
Adrian Evans
Username: Adrian_evans

Registered: 03-2007
   
Posted on Wednesday, July 02, 2008 - 11:25 am:      
Hi David - Many thanks for this.
In the end I put it back as is, and the repair is now complete. I'm pretty happy, bar not being able to colour match the new deck paint on the foredeck very well! (The existing is a palish greyish green, but I've done my best with some international grey, and added some olive drab intended for my landrover!)