The Winklebrig Forum

After some 15 years managing this site, it's time I retired - I also have cancer and the outlook doesn't look too good at present. So it's time I handed over. Anyone fancy taking over the site? It's written in PHP and is relatively straightforward.

If interested please contact me at admin@winklebrig.org

Regards to all

Rick

Now sold

Hi - in case you're still looking, I have an old WB which needs some work, hence very cheap! Comes with a trailer and is almost original in every way.

Roger Parish has a large collection of Classic boat and Watercraft magazines which he is having difficulty giving away! Too many to post but available for collection from West Midlands.

Contact Roger on cyro.parish@gmail.com

Kevin Wilkes (email: Wilkes64@gmail.com) has asked me to post this:

Hi. I was wondering whether you would post a wanted ad for me please. Looking for a winkle brig. Must have roadworthy trailer. I'm located in Cornwall. Cheers

Going back to the rig tension question, the "Old Gaffer" way of doing rigs is to make it look tight, but feel slack!

I am returning to UK sailing. My previous UK sailing was in the North Norfolk coast and Deben river. I want to get back to coasting and creek crawling. The Winkle Brig is my ideal choice for this. So if you are thinking of selling your boat and would like it to go to a home where it will be cherished please drop me a line. peteryoungman@yahoo.com  tel 07929913766.

WB81 Bittern - For Sale
For details see https://www.apolloduck.co.uk/boat/winkle-brig-20-for-sale/657203

Hi Derek,
For what it's worth, I've never been in favour of using anything other than something easily removed for treating wood above the waterline - if it gets damaged could be fun and games to get it looking good again! How about good old Deks Olje?

Hello I am looking for a mark 2 winkle brig if anyone is thinking of selling at some point, regards Robert Letts, Email: rcb.letts@gmail.com

For details see    https://derwentwatermarina.co.uk/product/peggoty/

Must admit I'm not a fan of any form of "hard" coating, particularly to any area that might get damaged - it makes it very difficult to repair. So personally I'd always use an oil type protection so that it just needs a quick lick rather than a scrape back and revarnish/epoxy.
Olio is always good!
However, having said that, if it's an area that's not seen - eg drop keels, epoxy sounds sensible!

I was posting the original question on behalf of a member, and I asked him about how the forestay broke - his reply was "The lacing gave way – our fault for not checking. We have sourced Columbian pine."

Personally I have never been too happy with the concept of using a lacing lanyard on something as vital as as a forestay - so if I'm in an area of not needing to drop the mast (somewhere like Poole harbour) I use a bottle screw (galvanised, not stainless), but if I'm on the Broads it's replaced by a block on the end of the sprit with a line leading from the forestay back to the cockpit, enabling lowering the mast whilst underway so as to shoot bridges. Works quite well, but be careful you know which rope does what!

Why a galvanised bottle screw? I never trust stainless, I've had them fracture on me (not on a Winklebrig, but on a much larger boat) - with galvanised I know where I am!

Request from David Wood - Our fore stay parted and the mast fell down smashing the jaws of both gaff and boom which need to be replaced. What wood should we use and where can we source it. With thanks David

I've usually found that the blocks line up reasonably if you use the central sheave for the tightest line - which is usually the main throat halliard and the jib halliard - depends exactly how you run the lines. That way the lines hold the blocks reasonably correct