New bilge boards

[VROUW KIRSTEN]

Hello,
after several problems last year i have made an inspection of the bilge boards. Both made of epoxy coated marine ply with iron legs. I found the coating was fractured so water could break into the ply. 
I decided to renew both boards using a water resistant alumina. Because of the higher specific weight I have to optimize the shape on my milling machine.
Please find enclosed, if interested, the technical drawing for the raw shape of the biilge board. Photos of the new boards will be posted later.

Kind regards

Gerold

[David Bone]

Hello Gerold,
If you haven't already made new boards, I suggest you check out their length.
On my boat, (#107) with standard 1,300mm length boards, I found the hauling line spigot in the top of the case was 50mm aft of the lead from the board, making it difficult to bring the board fully home.
As there was sufficient free length in the board casing, I lengthened the boards to 1,350mm, aligning spigot with line lead, making housing easier.
To stop me crashing the boards against the top of the housing, with new found enthusiasm, I screwed a rubber door stop to the top edge of the boards, near the aft end.
Regards
David
........

[VROUW KIRSTEN]

Hello David,

thanks a lot, but I have the bilge boards ready  . During installation I will add your tip with the rubber parts.

Kind regards

Gerold

[David Bone]

Hello again Gerold,
I am very interested to learn how your new aluminium drop boards have worked out.
I currently have 25mm ply boards with approx. 5kg lead inserted in each, a protective brass keel band on the lower edge and a metal shoe at the after end, giving a weight of 18.5 kg. each.
Because the ply has warped a little, hindering free movement, I may rebuild the boards next year and your approach with dimensioned aluminium plate looks well worth consideration.
I am estimating your weight per board as approx. 24 kg?
Have you left them at this weight or faired the edges to reduce same?
From Martin's handbook, I understand the steel encapsulated plates fitted to earlier models weighed around 27 kg each.
Lastly, what protective paint coating program have you used.
Regards.
David

[VROUW KIRSTEN]

Hello David,

you are right with the weigth, 24 kg´s per board is correct. I did not use any coating because normally I am sailing in freshwater and corrosion may be a problem in a few years. Only 1 or 2 weeks a year we are visiting saltwater. The only thing I added was a PTFE sleeve between the stainless steel retaining pin and the blade  to avoid electrochemical corrosion.

I have reduced the weight of each board a little chamfer each blade a little like a wedge. But at least I only lost 2 kg´s per side because I want to save the width of the boards for guide in the housings. To avoid scratching in the housings I rounded the edges at the upper side on the whole length.

VROUW KIRSTEN will be back in her element in the second week of April. After my first trip I will add my personal experience with the new boards.

Kind regards


Gerold

[David Bone]

Hello Gerold,

Thanks for the information.
Good sailing.

David.

[Paul Thomas]

Hello Guys,

I always read these posts with interest, but you have me puzzled.  The boat is kept either in the water or on the trailer.  How do you access the bilge boards for maintenance/removal?

[VROUW KIRSTEN]

Hello Paul,

at my trailer (Roller Coaster 3) I have enough space to replace the bilgeboards if the boat is still on the trailer. 

By the way, the new bilge boards worked excellent at my trip to the baltic sea last week. The additional weight regarding to the ones before made of wood/iron feets gave more stability not only under strong conditions 

I will check the bilge board housings next winter because they looked in need to renovation.

Kind regards

Gerold