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The Engine / Re: Electric outboards
« Last post by David Bone on July 07, 2018, 08:17:59 PM »
Responding to Gerold & David's inputs, here are some initial impressions of the Torqeedo Travel 1003CS.

1/ Gerold notes that the propellor rotates under sail at speeds over 2.5 knots.
So far, at speeds up to 4.5 knots, I have noted no rotation and think this is probably due to the unit being sited higher, with the 2 bladed propellor shielded fully behind the keel.

2/ Attached is a table of speeds, time and distance ranges achieved at a trial on Coniston Water and wonder how this compares with Gerold's experiences.

3/ At 3/4 throttle and above, there is considerable turbulence and backwash in the outboard well, which will be holding back some potential speed and in the longer term, I may well fit removable baffle plates in the bottom of the well. (a.k.a. Roger Parrish) My higher propellor position probably makes this more noticeable.

4/ Whilst certainly much quieter than a petrol outboard, the unit is by no means silent and above 1/2 throttle, there is a fairly high pitched whine from the gearbox.
(Competitor, EPropulsions's, comparable unit has a direct drive, brushless DC motor, which is apparently quite and of lower pitch.)

5/ To lock the battery to the motor unit, a long pin is inserted from the side, too long to be fitted whilst in the well, so the whole unit has to be assembled before lowering into position, which is a nuisance.  The battery is fairly well secured on the motor with location lugs and unlikely to dislodge, so I made a shorter hardwood pin, allowing me to secure the motor on the mounting bracket, then fit the battery and lock it on one side whilst in the well. Due to restricted space around, I think the boat would have to near capsize for the battery to fall off.

6/ Response, ease of use and hence manoeuvrability is greatly enhanced over a petrol outboard.

7/ The tiller/control unit display information is comprehensive and most useful. (Not least under sail.)

8/ In the past, I have usually only used the outboard when essential, for about 20 mins each outing, so for this use range would not be an issue but I plan to make more use of this electric unit and it remains to be seen whether one battery will provide sufficient resources.  Current thoughts are that the manufacturer's battery duration claims are optimistic and I am a little disappointed. (Additional batteries are unfortunately, very expensive.

These are very much first impressions and may change with more experience.
The Hull / Re: Pattern of hull strengthening timbers?
« Last post by petel on July 05, 2018, 09:45:13 PM »
After a bit more research I tend to agree with Dave's idea that this was based on a dayboat hull (I did not know that there were two versions until now!).

Having found a couple of pictures the dayboat on the web it appears to have an open floor made up of wooden slats;  can anyone help me find out what is under the dayboat floor?

I am assuming that it is a series of ribs across the boat - if that is the case, how many are there, what is the spacing and what width / depth of timbers are use?  This will help a lot in re-designing the timbers for the re-build.  Any information or photos would be really useful,



The Hull / Re: Pattern of hull strengthening timbers?
« Last post by petel on July 03, 2018, 11:21:44 PM »

The boat is quite well know in steam boat circles - Chimera II.  There is another steam launch called 'Esmeralda' based on a similar hull.  You can see both boats on the Steam Boat Association website.  Search youtube for 'steam outboard competition' and you will see her in action.

The boat is in good order with the exception of the rotten under floor timbers.  The hull appears to be conventional glass fibre of 4mm to 8mm thickness.  Unfortunately I have had to remove most of the interior woodwork to get access to the bits that I need to replace....quite a big job now!  The hull is very flexible where the timbers have rotted or become detached, hence my thinking that there would have been some timber in the original hull build.  I also suspect that the extra weight of the steam plant and rollers on the trailer may have added to the stresses on the hull.

The Hull / Re: Pattern of hull strengthening timbers?
« Last post by dave_cawston on July 03, 2018, 03:17:43 PM »
Hi Pete,

This is the strangest post I have seen on the forum and the most interesting.  What have you got?  Some photos showing the outside and inside of the hull would be most useful.  I am assuming you have a converted dayboat hull as opposed to a cruiser hull.  I can only speak about cruisers and there are no structural stringers or ribs on the cruiser, apart from the ribs which appear to be a thin layer of GRP laid up over rolled newspaper and to which the internal pine cabin linings are fixed.

Please post some photos, how to do that can be found in the Forum Information in Admin Matters.

The Hull / Pattern of hull strengthening timbers?
« Last post by petel on July 02, 2018, 10:52:49 PM »
Hello all

I know this question is a long shot, but here we go;  I have a Winklebrig but with a difference - she's a steam launch!  I have only recently acquired the boat and am currently renovating the hull as I've found a lot of wet timbers under the floors.

The boat uses the Winklebrig hull and has timber decks and coamings etc. (so does not have the fibreglass decks or internals).  My question is regarding the timbers bonded to the hull in the form of ribs and stringers etc.  Has anyone any sketches, drawings or photographs of the internal hull strengthening as the boats were built?

I am trying to work out what might have been original and what was added later.  There are a few stress cracks to deal with and I suspect they have been caused by the removal of timbers during the conversion.  I am planning to renew everything with Douglas Fir bonded in with epoxy, filleted and taped but can't decided where the timbers need to go at the moment!

Sailing / Re: Norfolk Broads
« Last post by Cockle on June 27, 2018, 09:59:56 PM »
Hi David

Sorry for the long delay getting back to you, great to meet up for lunch at South Walsham, good fun, Josie really enjoyed herself and I will post pictures of 'Markie' and aggressive birds later!
The Engine / Re: Electric outboards
« Last post by dave_cawston on June 23, 2018, 07:20:48 PM »
Well done David for taking the plunge and investing in the Torqueedo.  I eagerly await reports on range/running time etc. under Lake District operating conditions.  And just how noisy is it in comparison with a petrol OB?
David C
The Engine / Re: Electric outboards
« Last post by David Bone on June 23, 2018, 05:23:37 AM »
Hello Gerold,
My experience with the Torqeedo is recent and limited, so I haven't yet fully established its qualities.
Intended use is on the English lakes, where I feel it should do well and also be more environmentally friendly. (Noise, fumes and safety with grandchildren overnighting.)
However, I do agree, that for the sea, it would be inadequate and a petrol outboard is presently the only viable solution, so have retained my Mariner 4 for this use.
Return greetings from Cumbria.
The Engine / Re: Electric outboards
« Last post by VROUW KIRSTEN on June 22, 2018, 12:55:21 PM »
Hello David,

looking quite good! To lift the motor position avoiding grond contact is a good idea. I didnīt until yet because of the depth in the Duemmer lake, there ist normally no problem with this.

I have made the experience that during sailing with app. 2,5 to 3,0 knots the Torqueedo starts to rotate because of the water streaming past to the propeller. It sounds as if the motor still running, a very annoying sound. Because of this if I plan to sail a little longer I prefer to remove the Torqueedo until I plan to land again.

Last year Iīve sailed at Baltic sea, I prefer a 6 PS Petrol outboard because of power and available operating time.

Kind regards form Germany


The Engine / Re: Electric outboards
« Last post by David Bone on June 19, 2018, 09:01:59 PM »
I recently installed a Torqeedo 1003CS on W/B 107.
When mounted on the originally positioned outboard bracket, the fin of the motor projects about 4" below the keel and as I have an attraction for shallow water, with the occasional grounding, I moved the bracket up by 110mm.
By inserting 10mm spacers behind the bracket, the battery clears the well back plate by about 5mm, without modification and the forward end of the propellor hub clears the aft end of the keel by 15mm.
In operation, this works o.k.
I elected to install the optional remote controller, instead of the tiller, as I felt this would intrude too far into the cockpit and be a nuisance. The remote is bolted to a right angled plywood bracket, angled up by 30 degrees for screen visibility, which in turn is bolted through to the port locker, secured by hand tightened wing nuts, permitting removal after each outing.
Attached, should be a couple of photographs, illustrating the installation.
David Bone
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