The Winklebrig Forum

Thanks gents. For now the plan is to just get the board out and see if I can effect a repair which will last to the end of the season. Technically I hope to go sailing in September!

Then the winter job will be to get both boards out and replace with something heavier - perhaps adding some floors to take the sideways forces. When this occurs I'll probably take the inner mouding out in 3 pieces and re-do the glass joint round the board casings.

I'm open to any advice or input. If Dave Cawston is still looking - do you have any experience of the glassed-in ones? Is it a feasible idea to grind the glass away from the upper side of the pins and remove them?

First thing will be to cut an access/viewing hole in the saloon seat - I'm not sure how close to the centreline the boards are - or to put it another way, how far outboard they are from the inner face of the saloon seats.

Hopefully someone on here will know otherwise I'm going to have to measure-and-guess!

Then I'll be able to see how to drop the board. Once out, a grinder plus a lot of CSM, followed by a lot of sanding...

Hi Dave,

Thanks for the reply.

Yes the plate doesn't look good, lol! But many years ago I worked for Prout Catamarans and am not worried about doing glasswork.

I also spent some time in the yacht charter trade and have a good working knowledge of the systems, repair and construction of grp boats.

All the above to let you know I'm happy to have a go at it, but also happy to take as much advice as is on offer!

As a start, I'm thinking about cutting an access panel at least to see how the land lies - my first thought is to cut the top out of one of the starboard side berths - as far from any potential water ingress as possible - where to cut fore-and-aft andathwartships is an issue. I can measure it, but if you know the location of the pins, realtive to the interior mouldings, it would help a bit!

I' thinking that if i can locate the pin it might be possible to grind the glass off and drive the pin out or perhaps lift the pivot end of the board and get at the pin more easily?

Of course, if it's necessary to remove the inner mouldings I'll happily do that, but the more up heaval I can avoid the better.

Any advice welcome :-)

Cheers,

Roger

Thanks David.

I?ve read David?s post on repairing the housings and am assuming the work to get at the pins will be similar.

Best dig out the angle grinder and Dremel…

I hope David sees this and can advise on how to remove and re-fix the board.

I used to work with boats so, although a little daunted, I have a good idea of what to do. Once I’ve freed and repaired the board (or made a new one) it would seem sensible to re-install with an eye to subsequent further removal in the event of damage - and to modify the other board at the same time. I’m thinking waterproof access hatches.

I’m wondering if anyone has done that hefore?

Cheers,

Roger.

Hello all,

after a long period of incapacity I'm finally back to being mobile enough to start looking at the boat and getting her ready for sailing. The poor thing has been sitting on the front garden having been used a total of twice, four years ago, before my health and mobility went south. As a result she's a bit forlorn!

I've got the trailer well in hand - new bearings and brake shoes - probably at least one new brake cable as well.

While crawling around underneath I saw that the starboard bilge plate has delaminated to an alarming degree. I have not looked yet as to whether or not the boards are removable - my boat is Jenyatan, no.37, so it's a 50:50 chance I think.

From other forum posts it seems the boards are made of glass-sheathed ply with metal inserts - is there any resource I might access for how to repair or build a new one?

Many thanks,

Roger Harris

Belay that. Improvement in health and finances permits returning to sea!

Hello all,

It's with heavy hearts that we're putting Jenyatan, bought from Colin and Jayne Firth at the end of 2017, back on the market.

My unexpectedly and rapidly advancing arthritis and Suzy's foot surgery have effectively stopped us from using her more than a couple of times.

She's in very good condition and comes with the trailer as supplied by Colin and Jayne.

There may be someone on here who wants to buy - in which case great!

Otherwise we're looking to advertise on brokers sites and perhaps Ebay.

Can  anyone give advice and feedback on what options they've used?

We're looking for £7,800 ono

Many thanks,

Roger Harris.

Hi All,

We're Roger and Suzy, new owners of Jenyatan, Colin and Jayne Firth's boat before us. We got her in late 2016 but bad health struck and she's been laid up since.

With on operation scheduled for the end of Feb, we're looking forward to recovery and the opportunity to sail in 2018.

Anyone organising anything later in the year? Any meets or raids bring attended?

Failing that, how about organising one of our own?

Best,

Roger.

P. S. Hi to the Firths if still reading.

Thanks David for the advice - looks possible!

Hi Mike, thanks for the message. A hitch lock would've been my first option but my insurers insist on s clamp unfortunately. I'm looking forward immensely to our first sail and keeping fingers crossed for a mild and calm-ish day soon. Cheers for now, Roger.

Morbihan looks great - not sure we'll be going that far afield in the first year but who knows?

Hi David, nice to hear from you! I did a lot of research on the Winkle Brig before we  bought JenyaTan - and she basically ticks all the boxes for us - easily trailable, lots of character, easy to sail single handed, enough accomodation to keep you dry and warm.

I used to be a professional yacht skipper and my last boat was a 25m gaff-rigged ketch, so the Winkle Brig rig is something with which I'll be familiar.

Ballast seems to be a constant subject in the forum and I read with interest your posts about increasing the ballst internally. However, I'm a hefty lad at 6ft 2ins and more stones than I'd care to admit, so crew weight may play a larger part in our stabnility scheme than with others - as long as I sit well forward (so a tiller extension will be added asap). Perhaps we'll think of adding internal ballast later but for now we'll just see how she goes - see comment below about changing things.

Another area is the rudder - I see Martin converted his into a kick-up blade, which seems sensible to me if you're going to be sailing near the putty. That's something I'll be having a look at fairly soon.

I have a rule, however, not to change anything substantial about a boat for the first season's sailing, the rationale being that the previous owner will have found their remedies by trial and error and something that seems wrong will have you saying "_now_ I know why they did that" by the end of your first year's sailing.

Mainly we're looking forward to getting out on the water (we have her stationed at Bewl Water for now) and seeing how we go with her.

Thanks for the reply - no doubt speak again soon,


Cheers,

Roger.

She looks very neat and tidy Clint.

Hmmm - 13 views, so that's good! There are people out there, lol :-)

Having done a bit of research, the extra piece on the hub is called a bearing saver or hub saver ("Bearing Buddy" is a proprietary brand in the USA), which just taps into the actual hub housing itself:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQsEjHJ49OQ

At least, I'm assuming mine are the same - will look next time I'm at the boat.

So each time I wanted to put on the wheel clamp, I could just knock the saver out and replace the hub cap. I'm guessing this could make the saver a bit loose after time though, so any other experiences would be welcome.

Anyway - hello to the 13 people who've viewed so far. Drop me a line and introduce yourselves.

Cheers,

Roger.

Hello all!

Suzy and I have just bought JenyaTan WB37 from Colin and Jayne Firth.

We've moved her to Bewl Water in Kent for the winter and how to get a little sailing in those shelters waters to learn her ways before venturing further afield.

One thing I've discovered I'm the last few days, our insurers insist on a wheel clamp on the trailer, but the prominent hub covers with their grease nipples prevent a standard clamp from being used.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks,

Roger.