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Messages - David Bone

The Engine / Re: Electric outboards
June 23, 2018, 05:23:37 AM
Hello Gerold,
My experience with the Torqeedo is recent and limited, so I haven't yet fully established its qualities.
Intended use is on the English lakes, where I feel it should do well and also be more environmentally friendly. (Noise, fumes and safety with grandchildren overnighting.)
However, I do agree, that for the sea, it would be inadequate and a petrol outboard is presently the only viable solution, so have retained my Mariner 4 for this use.
Return greetings from Cumbria.
The Engine / Re: Electric outboards
June 19, 2018, 09:01:59 PM
I recently installed a Torqeedo 1003CS on W/B 107.
When mounted on the originally positioned outboard bracket, the fin of the motor projects about 4" below the keel and as I have an attraction for shallow water, with the occasional grounding, I moved the bracket up by 110mm.
By inserting 10mm spacers behind the bracket, the battery clears the well back plate by about 5mm, without modification and the forward end of the propellor hub clears the aft end of the keel by 15mm.
In operation, this works o.k.
I elected to install the optional remote controller, instead of the tiller, as I felt this would intrude too far into the cockpit and be a nuisance. The remote is bolted to a right angled plywood bracket, angled up by 30 degrees for screen visibility, which in turn is bolted through to the port locker, secured by hand tightened wing nuts, permitting removal after each outing.
Attached, should be a couple of photographs, illustrating the installation.
David Bone
I wouldn't worry too much, whilst it may be very desirable to upgrade your trailer, I am sure there are plenty of Winklebrigs being towed around the place with just the same trailer. I certainly know of one, around the same vintage as yours, which has been the length and breadth of the Country over several years
If the trailer has been well supported and protected it should get you home okay and you can review the situation then.
Good luck. 
The Rig / Re: Gunter Rig
June 27, 2017, 04:37:40 PM
High Peaked Mainsail:
The Rig / Re: Gunter Rig
June 27, 2017, 04:21:55 PM
High Peaked Gaff Mainsail.

My boat came with the standard Low Peaked Gaff Mainsail & Topsail, which, with minor modifications, have served me well for 7 years but I rather fancied the High Peaked Mainsail, offered as an option with original build.

From Arun Sails, successors to the original makers, I tried without success, to get a dimensioned drawing of the HP sail.
In the end, Mike Seller (WB 95) supplied me with a measured drawing of his original HP sail.
From this as a basis, Goacher Sails of Bowness, made me a good new sail at a reasonable price.

Longer spars were required, so first class spar timber was obtained from Robbins, again at a reasonable price.
(Spruce for the gaff and Douglas Fir for the boom.)
Jaws, in the original style, I fashioned from Ash for the boom and laminated Ash/Iroko for the gaff.

Finally completed this winter, the new arrangement has been put to the test and I am well pleased.
The sail is easy to hoist and lower, the boat feels better balanced, with weather helm reduced.
I am sure she sails better to windward, than with low peaked gaff alone and I am less bothered by gusts than when the topsail was set.
At an area of 115 ft2,( Less than main+topsail but more than main  alone.) and more of the sail near the foot, I feel confident in a moderate wind.
I haven't yet been out in a wind strong enough to require a reef and will be interested to see at what force this is needed.
Following my original sail, reefing points were placed at 700mm & 1,400mm above the foot. I am not sure this is the best placement and think perhaps, 500mm & 1,000mm might be better. Experience will tell and I will amend if necessary.

Two recently added photographs in the 'Gallery'show the boat under sail.

Sailing / Re: Wind strength and comfort
April 23, 2017, 05:53:07 PM
Rick's advice is very sound.

I think you will get different responses, depending on how people set up their boat and what rig they employ.

I have the more common low peaked gaff with topsail but also have about 80kg additional internal lead ballast and a 20kg battery installed under the companionway, so my comments don't really apply to your vessel.

Sailing alone, I carry full jib, mainsail and topsail up to fc.3 but with anything other than an occasional fc.4 gust, I drop the topsail alongside the mainsail.
I am o.k. with full mainsail and jib in fc.5.
Fc.6, I will take a reef in the mainsail but keep a full jib. (With a reef in the main, upwind performance is somewhat affected.)
I have sailed comfortably in fc.6 with a second adult onboard, setting full mainsail and jib, in fact I find the boat goes really well powering up into the wind but I have to pay attention.

I have sailed in gusts to fc.7 with two onboard and a reef in the main, when in company with other boats we fared quite well but I didn't want to be beaten and had to stay alert.
Last year I got caught out with gusts up to fc.8, which was too much. We had 4 onboard at the time, which helped but also hindered, as there was too much weight aft, the boat wasn't well balanced and we took a lot of water onboard.

All of this can be greatly affected by how much sea is running and how comfortable one is pushing the boat hard.
(Following Martin Cartwright's lead, I have strengthened the boat by installing an inner forestay, 2nd mastband with a 2nd set of shrouds and a mast compression post.)

This year I have fitted a high peaked gaff mainsail, without topsail and am looking forward to seeing how the boat sails.

David Bone

The Hull / Re: New bilge boards
March 29, 2017, 08:26:33 PM
Hello Gerold,

Thanks for the information.
Good sailing.

The Hull / Re: New bilge boards
March 19, 2017, 07:22:50 PM
Hello again Gerold,
I am very interested to learn how your new aluminium drop boards have worked out.
I currently have 25mm ply boards with approx. 5kg lead inserted in each, a protective brass keel band on the lower edge and a metal shoe at the after end, giving a weight of 18.5 kg. each.
Because the ply has warped a little, hindering free movement, I may rebuild the boards next year and your approach with dimensioned aluminium plate looks well worth consideration.
I am estimating your weight per board as approx. 24 kg?
Have you left them at this weight or faired the edges to reduce same?
From Martin's handbook, I understand the steel encapsulated plates fitted to earlier models weighed around 27 kg each.
Lastly, what protective paint coating program have you used.
The Hull / Re: New bilge boards
February 16, 2017, 07:41:16 PM
Hello Gerold,
If you haven't already made new boards, I suggest you check out their length.
On my boat, (#107) with standard 1,300mm length boards, I found the hauling line spigot in the top of the case was 50mm aft of the lead from the board, making it difficult to bring the board fully home.
As there was sufficient free length in the board casing, I lengthened the boards to 1,350mm, aligning spigot with line lead, making housing easier.
To stop me crashing the boards against the top of the housing, with new found enthusiasm, I screwed a rubber door stop to the top edge of the boards, near the aft end.
Trailers, towing & launching / Re: Hello!
December 10, 2016, 07:53:44 PM
Hello Roger,

Welcome to 'Winklebrigs.'

Colin and Jayne Firth first introduced me to a 'Winklebrig' when they gave me a detailed tour of 'Jenya Tan' in 2009.  Later that year I purchased 'Hope' (#107), which continues to provide me with a lot of enjoyment in use and quite an interest in experimentation.
Colin was meticulous in his care of the boat and I am sure it is well equipped, in good condition.
He used it extensively over a wide area, living onboard, including transiting the Caledonian Canal, Norfolk Broads, the Thames, Falmouth and the Lake District, where we have often sailed together with the DCA.

Through the forum and Martin Cartwright's excellent handbook, you will discover some of the Winklebrig's idiosyncrasies and the many different ways owners handle same.
Overall, I think you will find she is a timeless, robust, characterful boat, which can sail quite well and offers a lot of usable accommodation, whilst retaining a good sized cockpit in a small package.
There are many features of her design, which are really well thought out and she is always a pleasure to view, sailing, at anchor, tied up and even sitting on the trailer.

David Bone.
The Hull / Re: Ballast
June 05, 2016, 05:43:19 PM
Consequent to my previous entry re consolidation of 60kg lead ballast under the cabin sole:
Last week I enjoyed two sustained sails, one with force 3, under topsail and one at force 5, without topsail.
I really felt that with this latest adjustment everything came together well. The boat was light on the helm, tacked quickly, handled gusts well and dare I say it, surprised me both with her 'speed' and ability to close the wind.
Together with the incorporation of a drop plate rudder and other amendments, including, thanks to Martin Cartwright's lead, (Inner forestay, two mast bands, extra shrouds and internal mast compression post.) I consider to now have a robust, well handling little boat of character.
Next step is fitting a high peaked gaff mainsail and later perhaps a larger jib.
Goacher Sails of Bowness have made a mainsail based on Mike Seller's high peaked sail. (WB95)
It now needs me to fashion a longer yard and boom, which given my usual rate of progress, will probably take till next year.

A couple of weeks ago, I was with sailing friends on the shore of Windermere, one of whom has an imaginatively improved, often used Winklebrig, (WB69) on a mooring. Discussing various boats, asked what he would really like. His answer: 'I am very content with what I have,' says a lot.
Hello Ken,
I contacted my friend with the kicking strap and broken tabernacle. He advised the the back of his tabernacle split along the grain line, so constructed the replacement in two layers with the grain running at 90 degrees.  He has refitted the kicking strap but I understand that he really thinks it is of little effect and concurs with Martin's comments/recommendations.
The Hull / Re: Ballast
May 25, 2016, 06:10:55 AM
There are differing opinions about added ballast but I find it very beneficial. This winter, after experimenting for several years with quantity and location, I decided to fit lead shot encapsulated in epoxy, as low as possible, under the cabin sole.
60kg of shot was accommodated, at a SG of approx. 8.2.

The inner lining was cut out using a multi-tool, to within 35mm of the sides, 50mm from the forward end and aft to near the companionway.  Foam buoyancy underneath was scraped out and the inner hull cleaned.
(The black circle identifies a drain hole with plastic hose, cast in the keel ballast leading to the aft bilge well, fitted on build.)

Plywood floors were epoxied in place, to stiffen and subdivide the space, also create small collection well over the drain.
After coating the inner hull with International Danboline, drain channel of half 20mm plastic conduit were fitted as shown, secured with sealant.

To prevent the lead ballast sticking to the shell and floors, these were covered in polythene sheet and parcel tape.
Hopefully, this should allow the ballast to be prised out in future, if necessary.

Lead shot was mixed with West Epoxy into a thick slurry in a bucket and poured into each bay in turn, levelled with the top surface of the inner lining.  (400ml of epoxy mixed 7.5kg of lead shot.)
Initially I tried putting some dry shot in the first bay, then adding epoxy, mistakingly thinking it would soak around and mix with the shot. This didn't work well at all.

On completion, the cabin sole was covered by a sheet of epoxy coated and painted 12mm ply, fastened in place to the perimeter of the inner lining using stainless, self tapping screws, with small access hatch above the bilge well.

Additionally, approx. 20kg of removable,boxed lead sheet is secured in the after, under bunk storage wells, making 80kg in a all.  Finally, a 22kg H.D. battery is sited under the step aft of the companionway.

(The boat does still float and sails quite well.)
A friend of mine fitted a kicking strap to his Winklebrig, attaching to the back of the wooden tabernacle. Due to the shallow angle, the stress was excessive and it broke up the tabernacle. After making a new tabernacle, he decided not to refit the kicking strap. I think the heavy boom and having the mainsheet on a horse across the stern, help quite a lot.
The Hull / Re: Ballast
September 11, 2015, 05:10:29 PM
Hello Paul,
To add a contrary and undoubted disputed opinion, here's my two pennyworth.

On obtaining WB107 in 2009, I found her unacceptably tender, with or without topsail and think the ballast/displacement ratio is too small.
In often prevalent gusty conditions, I frequently shipped water and gave myself some concern

To aid matters, the following amendments were made.

To reduce weight topsides:
1/ Hollow wooden mast fitted. Supplied by Noble Masts Bristol.  (I know you have the same on Partan.)
2/ Lightweight 42mm dia. aluminium topmast fitted in place of solid wood original.

To aid stability below:
1/ Approx. 80kg lead ballast fitted in cabin sole and in cool store/washbasin lockers under bunks.
   (Securely fixed but easily removable if required to reduce towing weight.)
2/ 22kg HD battery fitted under cabin threshold. (Step lengthened by 3" to allow both battery & portapotti stowage under.)

In my opinion, this has improved stability and sailing capability a whole lot.
I like to use the topsail in winds up to fc.3, as I find, that with tension on the topsail leech, together with a stainless horse extending across the stern, the gaff does not swing too far out, the sail shape is better and I can sail closer to the wind, without losing all speed.
Once the topsail has to come down, I usually find upwind performance disappointing.

Sometimes I sail on a friend's Winklebrig without added ballast, who never uses his topsail and even then it seems unduly tender and he often finds it necessary to reef down in quite moderate conditions.

Regarding trim, my boat lies slightly by the head at her mooring but once I park my 16 stone in the cockpit, even keel or slightly by the stern soon occurs.  I use a tiller extension, to normally sit well forward.
Nothing of weight is kept in the stern lockers, anchor and cable being kept on the foredeck or forward end of the cabin sole.
Except if there is a lot of wind, my passenger usually sits on a seat in the companionway, which keeps the weight fairly neutral.

I do carry some weather helm, with or without topsail, which I prefer but nothing excessive.

I do agree that a bigger jib sounds a good idea. Though I have on occasion been forced to reef the main, I have never found it necessary to reduce the jib.

Though I haven't sailed with same, I think the high peaked gaff is probably a much better setup than low peaked gaff and topsail.
Mike Seller provided me with dimensions and I intend to follow this course the comoing winter.
(Mike, I contacted Arun Sails, successors to Rockall and though they promised to get back to me, so far they haven't but we have a good local sailmaker, Goacher, who will knock me one up if necessary.)
I considering this, I am still debating whether to use the same length of boom as the low peeked gaff and add a mizzen, as used and recommended by Martin, or go with the standard high peaked setup with longer overhanging boom. (Probably the latter, as I am somewhat lazy.)
On this note, a friend with a WB has added a small mizzen to his own design, mounted right aft behind the transom, which he finds o.k. but when I was with him in light winds, experienced difficulty with the stern blowing round, when running with wind astern.

Martin now uses a balanced lug mainsail, to balance the mizzen by moving the centre of effort forward, which works fine for him.
I have a balanced lugsail on a Ness Boat, which is fine on its own but in my current fiddling to add a jib, even with an added bowsprit, I find that a jib and balanced lugsail just don't like sharing the same space.
Also, to stop the lugsail and spars dropping in a disorganised heap on the deck and crew, I find that lazy jacks, fwd and aft, increasing compilation, are needed to control the thing.

Regarding my extra lead ballast, I am so well pleased with this, that I will probably cut up the cabin sole and encapsulate the same weight of lead shot in resin within the space between inner lining and shell.