The Winklebrig Forum

Hi Adrian, many thanks for the compliments!
The height of the antenna above deck is very important for the range of the VHF device. I built a hollow mast and was able to lay the cable inside up to the top of the mast.
I don't really have any idea how to get the aerial cable up there, because running it along the shrouds isn't ideal either. The side of the boom support is certainly the most suitable replacement location.

The least problem is a cable feed-through through the deck; there are good and attractive solutions here.

I removed my permanently installed ICOM last year because I bought a second boat and installed it there. I now use an ICOM handheld radio on my small Winklebrig. It has worked well so far.

Let me know how you solved this problem! Wish you a lot of fun with this great little boat!

Gerold

Hi,

I would like to attach the forestay to my WB using a Pelican hook on the bowsprit. Has anyone had any experience with this solution?

Regards

Gerold
WB120 VROUW KIRSTEN

Hello,

my WB 120 at that time had softwood (maybe Spruce) as end pieces on aluminum spars and mast, marine plywood behind GRP as bulwark and waterproof glued plywood on rudders and centerboards.

I built the bulwark, gaff and boom from oak during the refit, the mast from Canadian Spruce and the centerboards from marine grade aluminum.
I sanded the wooden rudder blade and sealed it with several cages of epoxy resin. I covered the benches in the cockpit with oak.

Hope this helps.

Gerold

Hello Winklebrigger!

I like this thread  because once again we go - 7 days Ijsselmeer, this time counterclockwise, but again starting from Koudum.
After it didn't work out in the last years maybe this time - I would be happy about more WB's on the water there. 
Call via VHF call sign DH6377.

When setting up the mast, there was always chipping at the edges at the base of the mast due to slight canting. This problem has now been eliminated by two bronze plates attached to the sides.

Some things take time, but now the time has come. 

The winter work is finished and tomorrow the little one goes back on the water. The bulwark, cockpit seats, bulkhead and many other wooden parts are shining in new splendour, the port side locker has been sealed off from the rest of the interior to store the fuel tank. While the woodwork was simply done again after 7 years, the locker was overdue. Especially when travelling on the North Sea and Baltic Sea, the light petrol fumes inside the boat were very annoying, especially at night.
Let's see if I can still sail...

Hello Ken,

I think it doesn't matter which side you put on top. Everything on the WB is a little crooked 

Gerold

For inland waters I have a Torquedo Travel, but I shortened the length of the shaft and adapted it to the installation situation on my WB. For saltwater and open waters at sea, however, I definitely prefer an internal combustion engine.

Good Morning,

Just a quick reminder to all of you who are still hibernating: Spring of the 2022 season is approaching!

VROUW KIRSTEN has received a new underwater paint, bulwark, mast and boom are in work and for the sliding bulkhead new skids are used.

In June we will go again for 8 days on the Ijsselmeer, in August a meeting of historic ships with regatta is on the schedule with the Wattensail in Carolinensiel.

Hello Peter,

In 2021 I?ve bought a Tohatsu 6 PS 4-stroke together with a special, large-surface pusher propeller. We were a week on the North Sea near the East Frisian Islands and had two days up to 7 Beaufort from north / north-west with very choppy seas. The engine has in every situation, even against the wind, brought the boat the necessary thrust and ran reliably.

Regarding the shaft length pay attention to the specific installation situation with your WB!

Regards

Gerold

Hi you,

some impressions of our journey at the Northsea.

Only one comment - great!

Kind regards

Gerold

Due to ideal wind and weather forecasts with 3-5 wind forces and a tide suitable for the entire voyage planning, we have changed the destination to the Weser estuary and the East Frisian Islands.

The way from the East of England to here is full of rewards - maybe we will meet!

Skipper

Hey John,

I can add the technical drawing of the plate if it is interesting. In my Company I have the Option for water jet cutting, in a second step we optimised the profile of the panel slightly on our milling machine to get a little more streamlining.
I will stop here because centreboards do not fit "Rigging" 

Gerold

Hello,

I thought the design with double shrouds and forestay made sense for my WB too, but after consulting with a local boat builder I decided against this conversion. I trust the original design and make sure that the relevant materials are in good condition. Measures such as these or trim changes due to additional weight should always be evaluated in the context of the physics of the whole boat and the planned sailing activities. And I have great respect for the individual experiences and appreciate them very much!

The centreboards on my WB were also made of wood with steel, I have replaced them with centreboards made entirely of aluminium (seaworthy).  They should not be too heavy, as the anchoring in the hull must not be mechanically overloaded. And two small M6 screws per axle are definitely not very resilient.

Gerold

Hello Gubby,

I don't know of any specific instructions or measurements for the pretensioning of the forestay or shrouds of my Winklebrig.
If you take into account that the mast is on deck and that excessive pre-tensioning acts on the deck structure via the mast, it quickly becomes clear that high pre-tensioning is not sensible. In addition, it depends on the sail position which shroud supports the mast, the windward side is then tensioned accordingly and the leeward side is relieved. For this reason, too, excessive tensioning of the mast via the shrouds is not necessary.
Several factors play a role in the forestay: Do you tension the forestay via a tack or via a tensioner? What form of furling jib do you use? These factors influence the possible as well as the necessary pre-tensioning. I set the forestay over a block, so I don't get the high pretension that would be possible with careless handling of a tensioner, for example.
In the end, I worked my way towards the "right" pretension. And the gaff rigging is much more forgiving than a Bermuda rig.

Kind regards

Gerold