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Messages - David Bone

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1
The Hull / Re: Rear Lockers
« on: April 13, 2022, 09:50:31 PM »
Hello John,
The rear locker lids on WB107 are secured by a length of 10mm stainless steel rod passing forward to aft through holes drilled in the lid ends and in the locker coaming. A stop washer is welded at one end and a hole drilled in the other to take a small padlock. On the underside of the lid a length of pipe is fastened to guide the rod. (Instead of pipe a couple of fairleads would probably do.

2
The Hull / Re: Compression post
« on: November 05, 2021, 07:38:30 PM »
I agree, particularly when sailing in strong winds.

3
Miscellaneous / Re: Year built?
« on: October 22, 2021, 08:52:46 AM »
Hello Gerard,

Looking back through the forum.
Miscellaneous, Winklebrig Queries, Reply #4, David Cawston, Sept.10, 2016.
Indicates his boat WB#15, owned from new was built in 1987.

4
Miscellaneous / Re: YouTube
« on: October 21, 2021, 08:10:41 AM »
I am sure David Cawston, WB#15 will be able to provide date of build for WB#18.

5
The Hull / Re: Delaminating Bilge Board
« on: August 20, 2021, 05:24:26 PM »
Congratulations, well done, I bet you feel better now.

6
The Hull / Re: Delaminating Bilge Board
« on: August 17, 2021, 05:15:05 AM »
On WB107, the board casings are sited close to the inboard edges of the bunk housings, angled slightly inwards towards the top.   See: 'The Hull,' Page 2, 'Day Boat Centre Board Jammed,' Reply #6, for illustration.

7
The Hull / Re: Delaminating Bilge Board
« on: August 15, 2021, 02:47:10 PM »
Good luck Roger, you may be the first to tackle this job but are unlikely to be the last.
Sounds like your skills are well up to the task and you will probably end up with a better job than original.
David

8
The Hull / Re: Delaminating Bilge Board
« on: August 15, 2021, 05:37:10 AM »
Hello Roger,
I know WB#37, 'Jenya Tan' from Colin & Jayne Firth's ownership.
She has the original glass fibre boards, swivelled on a pin moulded into the casings within the hull.
Removal and repair/replacement is going to involve cutting away a section of the side bunk sections for access to the pin.
From previous 'forum' entries, I suggest David Cawston, WB#15, has the best knowledge with which to advise you in this respect.
Rgds.
David

9
The Rig / Re: Gaff and boom dimensions
« on: May 22, 2021, 09:07:05 PM »
Hello Mark,
Dimensions taken from WB #107

Low Peaked Gaff Rig, as supplied:
Boom:      3,365mm + Jaws, 44mm wide, 50mm ht. at ends, 62mm in middle. Douglas Fir.
Yard:        2,615mm + Jaws, 44mm square section, Douglas Fir.
Topmast:  2,590mm, 30mm square section at ends, 44mm square section in middle. Douglas Fir.
               n.b. I replaced this with 2,140mm x 45mm O.D. Aluminium tube.
                     In both cases I bolted the topmast to the forward port shoulder of the mast. When using the topsail, secured
                     the tack and clew to the yard and raised it using a peak halyard.

High Peaked Gaff Rig, as used of late:
Boom:      3,710mm + Jaws, 44 x 50mm at ends, 44 x 62mm in middle. Douglas Fir.
Yard:        3,325mm + Jaws, 44mm square section. Spruce.
                Can be about 100mm less but added length reaches the gallows. (Discovered after the event.)

Hope this is of use, anything else, please ask.

Regards,
David
........


10
The Engine / Re: Electric outboards
« on: October 08, 2020, 08:26:52 PM »
Ref unpowered rotation under sail of the Torqeedo 1003C propellor, with associated gearbox whine, as mentioned by Gerold. (Reply #47)
As my gearbox has freed up, this rotation, hence noise, has become much more prevalent and is certainly most annoying.
To prevent rotation, I inserted a 750 x 25 x 8mm wooden batten from the forward end of the motorhead, extending aft down the starboard side of the outboard leg, secured at the top with a lanyard.
The blade comes up against the batten and stops.
The batten positioning is fairly positive because there are removable baffle boards in the bottom of the well surrounding the outboard leg.
Primitive but quick, easy and it worked. As a reminder to remove the batten before motor use, I displaced the magnetic stop key and very much hope to remember the association.
Whilst the 1103C propellor will probably also rotate, due to direct drive, there will presumably be no noise.

David

11
The Hull / Re: Woodwork
« on: September 22, 2020, 08:15:44 PM »
As John says, 'Woodskin' is durable, forgiving and easily maintained.

10 years ago, I stripped down all the woodwork, bulwarks, mast and spars included, then coated with 4 coats of Sikkens Cetol Marine, the previous name for International Woodskin.
Since then, the boat has been on a mooring, exposed to the weather for at least 6 months each year but it has not been necessary to strip the wood back again.
In general, a light sanding and touchup where required, has kept all looking fine.
The only item varnished is the tiller and the sole reason for doing that is to congratulate myself there is nothing else to do.
You will not be disappointed, enjoy.
David

12
The Rig / Re: Bronze pulley block
« on: June 18, 2020, 01:44:41 PM »
Hello Ken,

Your query stimulated me in to doing something, so here is my take on realignment:
David

13
Miscellaneous / Re: Eric & Ali's Winkle Brig archive
« on: April 11, 2020, 09:01:26 PM »
Hello John,

I concur with John Burton, very interesting and informative, thanks a lot.

14
Miscellaneous / Re: Winklebrig 98 bought! - any advice on rig conversion to gaff and topsail rig?
« on: March 07, 2019, 10:11:22 AM »
Following Roger Parish's example, I had a hollow mast made up by Noble Masts, Bristol of Douglas Fir.
It is very well made, saved about 5 kg in weight and as Martin says, should be a lot stronger.
To further save weight topsides, I use an aluminium topmast.
Good luck, David Bone

15
The Rig / Re: Gunter Rig
« on: February 13, 2019, 07:29:26 PM »
I agree with David.
Examples of high peaked gaff shown in the gallery are: WB106/96/95/91.

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