Douglas Patterson
Username: Douglas_patterson
Registered: 06-2011
Posted on Tuesday, June 14, 2011 - 04:38 am:
I have just bought a WB called Dolly Daydream built 1993 for an owner in Christchurch. The boat is sound but in need of a lot of TLC. I would be most grateful for advice on any of the following:
1. Does anyone have any history on her?
2. Filling, rubbing down and painting the hull
3. Fitting electrics to power radio, lights etc.
4. Fitting a safety rail along both sides of the cockpit
5. Fitting a spare outboard
6. Sailing single handed in coastal waters.
I look forward to any advice you can give me.
Thanks
Douglas Paterson
Aberdeen
George Billington
Username: George_billington
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Monday, June 20, 2011 - 10:59 am:
You must be a glutton for punishment!!! I've recently repainted and varnished all of my boat, so hope I can help with point 2 - somewhere in another Topic I remember someone having had Safety Rails made up, but on the other points can't offer much. As to painting, I simply rubbed the hull down with 180 grade Production Paper liberally soaked in soapy water. I was lucky that I had an un-dented hull. Minor blemishes were painted over, eventually, and are only visible to the hyper critical eye! After the rubbing down, the hull was dried and after checking that there were no areas still shiny, a coat of Yacht Enamel applied with a sponge Paint Roller - the type used for painting Radiators! I didn't use an undercoat, and actually bought the wrong shade of Green - I used a light Green over the original Dark Green - and it didn't show! The next day, after the paint had dried, there were lots of little burst bubbles over the hull. A quick very very gentle rub down with soapy wet 220 grade Production paper, and after drying, another coat of Enamel, applied with the roller, left a finish that looks like it had been sprayed.And that's all there was to it! As to the woodwork - need any advice on that?
Douglas Paterson
Username: Douglas_patterson
Registered: 06-2011
Posted on Thursday, June 23, 2011 - 06:04 pm:
Thanks George. Yes advice on the woodwork would be helpful too.
Douglas
George Billington
Username: George_billington
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Thursday, June 23, 2011 - 07:50 pm:
OK you asked!! All of my external woodwork had been varnished with Polyurathane Varnish, and water had got under the varnish, at damage points and at the edges. First Job was to remove this - I used a Stanley knife blade and scraped the varnish off by hand - I later discovered that Harris do a Paint Remover tool which has a two sided blade - much easier on the hands, and quicker! The bulwarks were a problem, so despite advice to the contrary, I removed each side. Mine are in two pieces, joining around the Porthole. The portholes are bedded in mastic, so you need to work away at the mastic with a long bladed knife - that was the longest bit. After that it was easy! The mast was also fun - being round! It's easy to tell when the varnish is off, as you'll start to scrape off wood. After a lot of 'research' I decided to use DEKS OLJE varnish. It's expensive, compared to Polyurathane, but much easier to use and gives a superb finish, if you use Part 2. So far - 2 seasons - it's weathered well - no signs of wear yet. Just follow the instructions on each tin. Enough of that for now. Are you going to polish up the Bronze fittings? If so let me know and I'll tell you what I did.
Douglas Paterson
Username: Douglas_patterson
Registered: 06-2011
Posted on Saturday, June 25, 2011 - 09:02 am:
Thanks again George. Yes I'm doing the bronze............. and everything else! All advice would be appreciated.
Douglas
George Billington
Username: George_billington
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Saturday, June 25, 2011 - 11:16 am:
Not a problem - it might save a lot of space on the Forum if I sent you info directly by e-mail. If you send me an e-mail and I'll reply to it so that it'll get through OK Send it to georgebillington@btinternet.com and put Winklebrig refurb as the Subject
Adrian Evans
Username: Adrian_evans
Registered: 03-2007
Posted on Sunday, June 26, 2011 - 11:10 pm:
Aw, don't be shy, guys! The more information on the forum, the merrier! I for one read everything posted here, and if it isn't immediately relevant, I know its likely to come up sooner or later; I'd be delighted if you'd carry on posting the tips here!
Pam Freeman
Username: Pam_freeman
Registered: 05-2011
Posted on Monday, June 27, 2011 - 10:33 am:
Ditto Adrian - and I don't even own a WB ... YET!! That fact alone doesn't stop me though from gleaning as much information as I can re the wonderful 'brigs. So PLEASE, all topics - and photos - are looked at and I check every day to see what you lucky owners are up to. It's all much appreciated and, one day, I'll too be able to put topics and subjects learned into practice on a 'brig of my own. So, thank you....
Best wishes,
Pam
David Cawston
Username: David_cawston
Registered: 03-2007
Posted on Monday, June 27, 2011 - 03:42 pm:
Hi Douglas, Just in case you have not found a couple of threads in this section, look at 'Keeping up Appearances' and 'Bulwarks and Portholes'.
After 6 years I have had to clean up the portholes and it was simply a matter of attacking the bronze with an extra heavy duty rotary mop http://www.cromwell.co.uk/YRK2474320K It made an easy job, with rubbing compound, of removing the Incralac, restoring the shine and one new coat of Incralac and they are once again looking pristine.
My modifications to the portholes makes removing and refitting the bulwarks so easy, bulwarks off in under 10 minutes per side, with a helping hand to hold the spanner inside the cabin.
However I have a problem with Deks Olje on my mast. All over the mast there are small cracks and it is as if water has got into the cracks and lifted the timber ever so slightly, so it feels like little slivvers of timber want to peel away from the surface. A really good rub down this winter is on the jobs to do list!
George Billington
Username: George_billington
Registered: 12-2009
Posted on Monday, June 27, 2011 - 07:09 pm:
Sorry Adrian - just trying to save spacew on the Web Site so here's what I sent to Douglas - hope it helps anyone else
First a point about the wood treatment. If you use the Deks olje, a stiffish brush is good - but I've used cheap brushes - 5 for £1.99 and they work great. Just make sure that when applying Deks No 1 you brush well into the wood - don't slop, especially at the prices! Don't treat more than you can brush in fifteen minutes, that's the time it takes to soak in an do its job. Then leave for three days to cure. You can do it outside in the dry, and if it raind later - no problem, as the wood, when protected, 'shrugs' of the rain (my experience!).
When doing the Deks No.2, any cheap brush will do - again I used a 5 for £1.99 pack and none of the hairs shed!
As to the Bronze, I used an Engineer, who took the fittings to a specialist sandblaster, and was told not to use sandblasting, as it would remove too much of the metal to clean it. Instead, we used rotary discs to polish stainless steel, for attachment to an Angle Grinder, and cleaned them that way. Once cleaned and bright, I sprayed them with clear laquer bought as a spray can from Halfords. Still looks good after two years.
Lastly, underwater. I sail on a fresh water lake and anti fouling is frowned upon - it's actually banned. I painted the underwater bits with black Hammerite. As it's shiny, at the end of the season, when pulled out, it means a pressure washer gives a superbly clean underneath, but when and if you do it, abrade the underneath first. As mine has a white line dividing the hull colour and underwater bits, I also painted it with white Hammerite. Not only is it shiny, but it dries in 20 mins.
And Dave's comment about the mast is probably spot on - but as mine had not been used for several years, and apparently stored in a barn all of that time, I was fortunate. Perhaps leaving the mast in the garage over winter and using a hot air paint stripper to help dry it may help dry it out?
Phil Shimmin
Username: Philshimmin
Registered: 11-2010
Posted on Tuesday, June 28, 2011 - 05:47 pm:
My Bronze fittings were removed, cleaned with paint remover to take off the previous lacquer,then coated /brushed/ rubbed with rust remover treatment, "kurust"from the car diy place, washed off then polished 1st with the finest wet and dry paper and brasso, finishing with just Brasso. Lastly 2 coats of lacquer to keep the shine.
Brian Kirkland
Username: Brian_kirkland
Registered: 08-2011
Posted on Saturday, October 15, 2011 - 11:55 pm:
I've just stripped the old flaking polyurethane off the bulwarks of WB30 and now I need to decide: Deks Olje or traditional varnish? I have a feeling Deks done properly is easier to maintain. I've been reading the comments here about Deks - has anyone (George perhaps? or Pam?) got an idea of how many litres of D1 you used? And D2? I've got to travel over a hundred miles to get a chandler who has Deks, so I'd like to get enough in the first purchase to avoid a return visit! Many thanks - oh and if you could have a word with the weather guys it would help if they turned off the tap over here in NI, even occassionally (enough for a Deks job on Stella would be good).
Pam Freeman
Username: Pam_freeman
Registered: 05-2011
Posted on Sunday, October 16, 2011 - 01:04 pm:
Re the "tap" leads perfectly to what, in my mind, is reason enough not to varnish! My past boats have, as now with Mudlark, been kept out in the open so I choose not to use varnish simply from the frustrating point of view that as soon as any varnishing had finished, it'd rain! So, Deks Olje for me.
If you've already got varnish on, I'd just rub it down with a kitchen sponge with the green side and using plenty of good old soapy water, in order to give the DO something to bite into. You should be able to apply the DO, no1, without varnishing; just giving this rub down first. In your case, since you've prepared the surface, I'd use some DO1 first. Then a topping of the DO2 leaves it looking very special.
Where DO has been used already, a similar rub down is all that is needed prior to just DO2. I've only ever used the DO1 first on a completely naked piece of wood. Oh, and I like to feed the DO in with a good, non-hairy brush and, if necessary, coax the stuff in using my fingers. Mucky I know, but it at least guarantees the stuff gets in everywhere!
Re your chandler... and please don't be offended by this but - since you're using the Internet to write here, I'm certain - well, "almost" certain that buying the product Online and having it delivered to NI would be cheaper than your mileage cost there and back to get the stuff. I truly apologies if I've annoyed you by suggesting that.
A tin usually leaves me with some "leftovers".
All the best, and let us know which one you plump for; I'd certainly be interested.
Pam
Brian Kirkland
Username: Brian_kirkland
Registered: 08-2011
Posted on Sunday, October 16, 2011 - 02:53 pm:
Hi Pam, thanks for your comments on the Deks. I take no offense about your internet purchase idea - but few chandlers (few UK stores in fact) recognise that NI is part of the UK, most deliver to mainland happily, most charge much extra for delivery to here. Deks is considered "paint" and responses to my queries to mainland suppliers showed they will only use a courier (and courier prices) for delivery over here. Mostly though, it's just I don't want to take the time to do the journey a second time!
My wood is completely stripped to bare - do I take it that one litre of D1 was enough? I estimate there are 4sq m of wood in the bulwarks - that's the stated estimated coverage of 1 litre. I just wondered if you had to dip into a second tin, from bare wood. I echo the sentiment about varnish & rain! PS I've read elsewhere your comments on overwintering the trailer: Could I invite you to examine your winch? When I took all the winch strap off mine, I was apalled at the state of the strap retaining bolt (how did it get that bent?) and the amount of rust on the drum. You might have a chance now for preventative maintenance on the principle of letting air dry the metal: In future my strap's coming off each winter.
David Cawston
Username: David_cawston
Registered: 03-2007
Posted on Sunday, October 16, 2011 - 08:03 pm:
Hi Brian, Having used DO for over 20 years, I have stopped using D2 as the D1 gives a nice satin finish that does not show the small knocks etc. and is very easy to touch up/re-coat. The secret to getting a good finish with DO is to strip the wood completely of the varnish, as you have done, then apply at least 6 coats of D1 wet on wet, let it dry/cure for a few days, lightly rub down with 1200 grade used wet, let it dry and finish with 2 coats of D1 wet on wet. However I was always very impressed with the finish Roger achieved on Partan with Cetol Marine stain. I am presuming you have removed the bulwarks, if the port holes have not already been modified, have a look in topic 'The Hull', thread 'Bulwarks and Portholes' for the mods to the portholes which make removal and replacement of the bulwarks so easy.
Brian Kirkland
Username: Brian_kirkland
Registered: 08-2011
Posted on Sunday, October 16, 2011 - 09:25 pm:
Hi David, good thoughts there. Good ideas about the portholes which frankly are a pain to remove. I was planning the "full treatment" ie D1 saturation followed by several coats of D2. I am intrigued by the D1-only method for I thought it was necessary to apply D2, that D1 would quickly disappear when exposed to weather and it required the D2 finish. And I thought I knew what I was going to do ...
Pam Freeman
Username: Pam_freeman
Registered: 05-2011
Posted on Monday, October 17, 2011 - 09:02 am:
Hi Brian, David had me thinking over things and remembering what was best when using DO1, especially for the first time with all the coats involved, was that I well and truly used more than the 1 litre can when working on totally bare or well-sanded wood. I can't remember using more than 2 litres so my apologies for not being very helpful on that score.
Point taken re the chandlers; it's such a darn shame ref the delivery. I'll talk to the fairies at the bottom of the garden and see if they might whisk some DO to you by tomorrow morning!
I am very grateful to you for your pointer re the winch strap on the trailer and reference to the "air drying". Your comments added to those I've gleaned elsewhere on the Forum have certainly helped me re getting the best for the trailer over winter. Thank you.
All best wishes, Pam
Brian Kirkland
Username: Brian_kirkland
Registered: 08-2011
Posted on Monday, October 17, 2011 - 07:10 pm:
Hi Pam - your faeries worked! I now have two litres of D1, and a promise from the NI chandler to deliver future chandlery at modest cost from him up to my north corner. So it was worth the drive. He too, like David, suggested D1 alone. Well it seems the weather this year has closed for any application of D2 - it's just too wet, but that means I can get lots of the saturation done, and D2 in the springtime.
Pam Freeman
Username: Pam_freeman
Registered: 05-2011
Posted on Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 01:14 pm:
Hi Brian,
Brilliant news! I don't suppose the Northern Ireland fairies happen to know the lottery numbers - for Euromillions or National tomorrow (I'm not proud... either will do!)...
I'm glad your chandler chap was able to help re application of just the D1. We'll compare photos here in Forum come the Spring!
All the best, Pam
Brian Kirkland
Username: Brian_kirkland
Registered: 08-2011
Posted on Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 08:15 pm:
Oh gosh - photos! I'll have to get the Farecla on the hull before then!! So much to do!! Thanks for everyone's help and advice in this forum - proves that Winkle Brigs are sociable boats that choose sociable owners!
David Cawston
Username: David_cawston
Registered: 03-2007
Posted on Sunday, October 23, 2011 - 11:04 am:
Yes we are sociable owners that just love sailing a pretty boat. We are not interested in having the fastest boat on the water, just gently cruising around and relaxing. Leave all that testosterone for the round the buoys racers. Mind you when two WBs are sailing together, you can see the horns grow, fine tuning of the sheets, playing with the bilge plates for optimum performance, anything to outsail the other WB! :-)