The Winklebrig Forum

Markie spends almost all of her time 'parked up' in our garden in Northumberland, but if Covid and time allow, we are hopeful we might come down to the northern Broads in September.

Who knows how long it took Mr Reid to complete the 'kit'.  March 1992 was the date when Eric completed the order to supply the kit boat. I used to manufacture kit cars (not toys but full size cars) and some of those kits took years for the owners to complete, or at least get them in a state to hit the road. Some were never totally completed, there were always jobs that were on the 'to do' list.

Hi Pat,
WB62 was ordered in January 1992 and completed in March 1992.  It was supplied as a 'Kit Cruiser' to a Mr C Reid.

Reinforced PVC.  I believe PVC lasts a lot longer than canvas, it does not rot but over time loses its elasticity, certainly in the case of my 20+ year old streamlined pvc cover.  But it still does the job.  Canvas will absorb moisture and rot unless kept very clean and waterproofed.

Hi Pat,

http://www.tomhughestarpaulins.co.uk/index.html

As you can see from their website they are based in North Shields.  To make a tailored/shaped cover, they need the original as a pattern, but not for rectangular/square etc..  A long long way from Norfolk (lost count of the number of times we have done that A1, A17, A47 journey to the Broads).

Hi,

For decades I have been using Deks Olje on my WB.  The hardest job was removing the original varnish, but once that was off, applying the Deks Olje was so easy.  It comes as a No 1 for a satin finish and as a No 2 for high gloss.  I prefer the No 1, you apply it wet on wet 6 + coats and it really soaks in to the wood, so does not peel or lift like varnish.  Recoating requires a minimal rub down and a couple of coats to refresh.  The No 2, applied on top of the No 1 does not give as good a shine as varnish but again does not lift or peel, in my experience.   It does require a good rub down/scrape if you want to recoat.  I have no rot in any woodwork, but 'Markie' spends most of her life under a tarpaulin that covers all the woodwork. 

One little tip, I have fitted a thin 0.8mm thick stainless steel shoe under the foot of the mast, which saves the foot of the mast snagging and splitting when raising or lowering the mast and places less strain on the tabernacle (photo hopefully attached).

For winter I have a simple heavy duty rectangular tarpaulin with plenty of eyelets, nothing fancy, which was made up by my local lorry tarpaulin manufacturer.  Sorry cannot remember the size.  He also made a copy of the summer tailored cover which is nice and streamlined for towing.  Just Google for your local tarpaulin supplier/manufacturer.

I have, like Martin, replaced the original with a beefier version and the inside nut on Markie is also above the plywood.

The first mention of the MK11 on a list Eric sent me is WB65, ordered January 92 and completed July 92

They are just stuck in with a silicon adhesive. Marlie has had several cases of the perspex coming loose. A five minute job to put right. 

Launch and recovery so easy with my modified roller coaster (now breakback) trailer, dry hubs, dry feet, look on youtube     https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnpfvGfcDr0

Note the original anti-fouling, 32 years old.  Shows how little we use 'Markie'

You are spot on, the WB roller coasters had specially fabricated components to avoid this problem.

I am pretty certain there is a sheer curve.  Good luck finding mahogany (or similar), if you are wanting to replicate the original wooden bulwarks.  How about skinning the grp with very thin marine ply (or buy some wood grained patterned fablon and attach to the grp!!)  I like being really helpful

Tim, I have sent you a PM with Roger's mobile number.  Roger was convinced about the advantages in having a lighter hollow mast, quite possible.  But I have survived over three decades with a solid all wood one and it is still very easy to raise and lower. http://www.winklebrig.org/smf/index.php?topic=281.0