The Winklebrig Forum

Brian Kirkland
Username: Brian_kirkland

Registered: 08-2011
   
Posted on Thursday, August 25, 2011 - 11:58 pm:      
My WB 30 "Stella" has always been a 'wet' boat from when I purchased her "used" in 2002. With a number as low as 30, she doesn't have removable bilgeboards. Initially I thought that wear damage from a badly fitting engine leg had separated hull and inner moulding in the outboard trunk - I hoped a generous application of epoxy had solved the problem. But Stella still leaks - and I have begun to suspect the bilgeboard casings are the cause. I had put off repairs, until I discovered this forum for the first time yesterday. I read here that other owners have made repairs - would anyone like to talk me through how they achieved their repairs? What cracks / damage is likely? How much of the inner moulding needs to be removed for access? How did you remove it? How did you repair the damage? What materials did you use? All advice & experience welcome. It'll be fun to have a dry little ship next year!

Vipula De Silva
Username: Vipula_de_silva

Registered: 07-2011
   
Posted on Monday, August 15, 2011 - 11:37 pm:      
Hello all

Just about to pick up our boat from the brokerage. The hull is a little faded and I was planning to try polishing the green GRP.

I guess this is the sort of thing that I'd use T-cut for if it was a car. Can anyone recommend a suitable equivalent for boats?

Many thanks

Vip

Douglas Patterson
Username: Douglas_patterson

Registered: 06-2011
   
Posted on Tuesday, June 14, 2011 - 04:38 am:      
I have just bought a WB called Dolly Daydream built 1993 for an owner in Christchurch. The boat is sound but in need of a lot of TLC. I would be most grateful for advice on any of the following:
1. Does anyone have any history on her?
2. Filling, rubbing down and painting the hull
3. Fitting electrics to power radio, lights etc.
4. Fitting a safety rail along both sides of the cockpit
5. Fitting a spare outboard
6. Sailing single handed in coastal waters.
I look forward to any advice you can give me.
Thanks
Douglas Paterson
Aberdeen

David_owens
Username: David_owens

Registered: 04-2010
   
Posted on Sunday, August 29, 2010 - 08:45 pm:      
What is the function of the aperture from the portapotti cubbyhole (under the step) to the rear lockers (in front of the engine well)? Is it discreet ventilation for the portapotti, ventilation in general for the cabin, or a route for water to escape to the bilges should the WB ever get swamped? Or something else? Or just one of those things?

George Billington
Username: George_billington

Registered: 12-2009
   
Posted on Tuesday, July 27, 2010 - 10:04 am:      
Unbelievable as it may sound, I've had my Rudder, Tiller and Top Hanger stolen from my boat which was on a swinging mooring.

Does anyone know where I can get replacements, or the measurements of the items so I can get new bits made?

Thanks,

George

Martin_cartwright
Username: Martin_cartwright

Registered: 04-2008
   
Posted on Sunday, July 05, 2009 - 03:37 pm:      
I 'raced' in the Old Gaffers race off Southwold yesterday and to begin with (Force 2-3ish)Winkle performed very well keeping up with the rest of the fleet. Then the wind, sea and tide picked up and I was forced to retire as even fully reefed I was over canvassed and could not make any headway.I had a great sail under headsails and mizzen while I waited for the rest of the fleet to finish (although 3 hours in those conditions was about 2 hours too long!), and I am drawn to the conclusion that when sailing the Winklebrig single handed at sea, more balast is required. Possible solutions are:-
1. Adding to the weight of the centre boards.(Possibly a lead or iron shoe down each leading edge?).
2. Adding to the weight of the keel:- Some sort of shoe arrangement.
3. Adding internal balast:- Replacing some of the foam with concrete.

I know I could always try and recruit one or two large crew members, but I actually like single handed sailing. Anyone any (polite!) ideas?

James_parsons
Username: James_parsons

Registered: 04-2009
   
Posted on Friday, April 24, 2009 - 05:22 pm:      
On previous boats I've always been able to make a visual check of the bilge, to check for early signs of leaks etc. There does not seem to be a way of doing this on a Winkle Brig. Has anyone got any ideas?
Also, the Winkle Brig is reputed to be unsinkable due to the inbuilt foam buoyancy. Has anyone tried this out, or seen any test results? Where is the faom? If it really is unsinkable that will affect my decision on how far off shore I am comfortable and what flotation/inflatable I carry. With the great weather we're having I can't wait to get out there and do some sailing!

Adam Sinclair
Username: Adam_sinclair

Registered: 11-2008
   
Posted on Thursday, April 02, 2009 - 10:29 pm:      
The swinging centre board on my day boat seems to be well and truly jammed. Has anyone had a similar problem or have any ideas on how to free it? Any tips would be much appreciated!

Adrian Evans
Username: Adrian_evans

Registered: 03-2007
   
Posted on Friday, June 13, 2008 - 05:29 pm:      
I am just about to refit my replacement forward starboard bulwark on Peggoty. where the porthole clamps the aftward end to the grp side of the cabin, there was a huge amount of silicon sealant. This may have beon to help stop water penetrating the leading edge of the porthole, or may have been to try and help hold the back edge Of the bulwark in place in addition to the porthole - the spring in the wood exerts considerable force.
if the latter, I'm tempted to use sikaflex- a much better adhesive - but much harder to remove if I ever needed to get the bulwark off in one piece.
I'd appreciate any thoughts. thanks.

Julian Swindell
Username: Julian_swindell

Registered: 03-2007
   
Posted on Tuesday, May 06, 2008 - 10:58 am:      
I was just thinking about ideas I have nicked from others and this was a particularly good one.

I have two large horn cleats fitted either side of the cabin bulkhead, which I had seen on another WB as a way of quickly tying on a dinghy. What I then did was to fit two permanent bow mooring lines, one each side. Each has a loop going over a cleat on the fore deck, then out through a bow fairlead and back outside all the shrouds to be belayed to one of these cleats, with a long loose end. When I come alongside, I just step out holding the appropriate loose end and I have got immediate control of the boat by pulling it in from amidships. No problems with the stern swinging out as can happen with just a bow line. I often also use this midships line as the final brake when coming alongside a pontoon. I drop it (if I'm lucky) over the cleat at the end of the pontoon and use it to brake the speed of the boat (usually with the aid of a mumbled prayer to the god-of-single-handed-sailors. )For a short stop, this single line is all you need, it holds a small boat like a WB neatly against a pontoon or another boat. For a longer stop I tie on a stern line and then uncleat the bow line from the midships cleat and use it as a conventional bow mooring line. It works a treat.
Another unexpected benefit was when my engine wouldn't start just outside the entrance to Poole Harbour (anyone who has sailed there will know that this is NOT a good thing). There was a Harbour Masters rib just there, and I only had to uncleat my midship line and pass it to him and he towed me into safety. No going forward to rig a tow line or anything scary like that. The photo should just about show the lines and cleats in place

Keith Dennis
   
Posted on Saturday, February 16, 2008 - 07:11 pm:      
Whilst refitting the restored rubbing strakes to Thurn Too, I found the starboard bow area of the hull was flexing. Further investigation showed that four of the the pop-rivets used to secure the deck to the hull had pulled through the deck leaving the two unconnected for some 3 or 4 feet. My boat has twice been badly hit by incompetent cruiser skippers on the Norfolk Broads. On neither occasion was I present but bystanders left me in no doubt that both strikes had been substantial. My guess is that the hull flexed and pulled the rivets through the deck. I have used quarter inch, one inch long brass set screws to reunite the deck and the hull. Any one else had this sort of problem?

nick baker
   
Posted on Sunday, February 03, 2008 - 11:25 pm:      
Thought this might be an easy job for the winter. Has anyone done this and come out alive!
The fumes would be a major problem with any paint that is going to stick to glass fibre properly so any suggestions welcome.

Martin Cartwright
   
Posted on Sunday, January 27, 2008 - 01:57 pm:      
In anticipation of another summer like the last one, I am thinking of having a spray hood fitted.
I note that Andy Dalby has one on Mudklark which looks very good. If you read this Andy, could you let me know who made this for you? Can you sail with it up? (ie Does it foul the boom?). Do you find the window necessary or can you look over the top? If Andy does not read this, has anyone else any knowledge of sprayhoods on Winklebrigs?

Martin Cartwright
   
Posted on Thursday, January 03, 2008 - 12:29 pm:      
I currently have a very wavey line where the previous owner applied antifouling. Does anyone have any ideas where the boot topping should be, or looks best? I know conventional wisdom is that you leave the boat in the water and where the scum line forms is where the boot topping should be. Do you think this works with the chines of the Winklebrig?

Keith Dennis
   
Posted on Friday, December 14, 2007 - 05:48 pm:      
I have removed the rubbing strakes on Winkle Brig 50 and find that they are rotting and need replacing. The original material was mahogany and I'd like to get two long strips (16' 7") so that I don't have to join shorter lengths. Any ideas where I can source suitable material at a reasonable price? Has anyone else renewed their rubbing strakes? Any advice welcome.

geoffrey osborn
   
Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2007 - 12:10 pm:      
When I first sailed Calidris I did not like the - to me - excessive play in the rudder bearings.
This was caused by quite a lot of wear in the four bronze bearings - mostly in the lower pair.
The original 8mm diameter pivot rod was replaced by a 10mm item with a split pin hole drilled at the bottom to prevent the rudder lifting off.
The bronze bushes were removed from the transom and the rudder and reamed out to 10mm. After refitting the bronze pieces, some timeconsuming alignment tooke place before final tightening of the attachment bolts. It did take quite a long time in all, but there has been no appreciable wear since. Obviously a 10mm shaft has a greater bearing area, and I always lash the tiller when the boat is on her mooring.

Adrian Evans
   
Posted on Tuesday, December 04, 2007 - 01:26 pm:      
living about as far away from the sea as is possible, I'm not mowed out with sensible boat repairers, and I think I am going to undertake my repair to Peg myself. It is essentially a tear in the deck about 14" long, levered up by the bowsprit. (Arrgh!the bobstay shackle popped when the top of the mast made contact with a tree I thought I was well clear of - the branch no more than an inch in diameter, less than a foot from the top of the mast. Thus the mast pulled the forestay and the forestay pulled the bowsprit and the bowsprit pulled the deck...)

I plan to get her indoors to allow proper curing. My question is a)can anyone confirm that the grp matrix is epoxy resin,as I expect, and not polyester?
b)I have assumed that resin compatability is critical, but is this the case with repairing old, long cured grp?

Many thanks for your thoughts

Adrian

Roger Parish
   
Posted on Saturday, November 24, 2007 - 08:55 pm:      
The latest posting by Geoffrey quoting boat speeds reminded me of a discussion I have had with Dave Cawston this year on how fast can a Winkle Brig go. I have often seen speeds in excess of 5Knts on my log but it is probably inaccurate. Wave making theory limits a displacement's boat speed to 1.34xsq rt of the water line length. For a cruising boat the factor is below 1.2. This would indicate that the maximum hull speed for a Brig is < 5Knts. All of this would be irrelevent if the boat starts planing! How fast is your Winkle Brig?

Julian Swindell
Username: Julian_swindell

Registered: 03-2007
   
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2007 - 05:16 pm:      
I am planning to do something about my worn bilge board pivots this winter, rather than risk them failing. I would appreciate any advice about what is under the GRP in the cabin. I think Dave Cawston has done this? What I was planning was, for each bilge board, cut a rectangular hatch over the board pivot end, and if necessary, a small circular hatch to gain access to the inboard end of the pivot. Work/chip the pivot bolt out and get the board out. Rebuild the pivot hole in the board, which I know is badly elongated, and then reassemble and seal the whole thing. Fit the circular hatch and screw down a plywood hatch cover over the big hole. Does this sound feasible to anyone who has tried this? There is some excellent advice on replacing pivot bolts available from the Drascombe Association website at Tim Pettigrew's pages.
http://www.pettigrews.org.uk/lm/page012.htm

Adrian Evans
   
Posted on Friday, June 22, 2007 - 12:19 pm:      
Martin, I seem to remember on the old forum that you posted about some modifications you had made for sea sailing - strengthening under the tabernacle, as I remember?
When you've a moment, I would be grateful if you could recap on the reasons and the particular measures you have taken. In due course, the West coast of Scotland is in my sights for cruising, and Peggoty may get an outing to Gigha fairly soon.